2) Connect discharge piping and run it to the nearest sewer or surface outlet. Use pipe joint compound at all connections. Sump pumps can be piped to discharge into the house drainage system, to a dry well, splash block or to a storm drain, depending on local plumbing codes. The discharge pipe should be as short as possible and contain as few elbows as possible. The discharge pipe should be the same diameter as the discharge size to reduce pipe friction losses. Smaller pipe will restrict capacity and reduce pump performance. The sump pump comes with 1-1/2" female pipe thread discharge, and 1-1/4" FNPT reducing bushing.

3) Always install a union in the discharge line, just above the sump pit, to allow for easy removal of the pump for cleaning or repair.

4) In situations where the piping is long, the vertical discharge is above 7 or 8 feet, or a small pit has been provided, use of a check valve is recommended to prevent backflow of water into the sump. When a check valve is used, drill a relief hole (1/8" or 3/16" diameter) in the discharge pipe. This hole should be located below the floor line between the pump discharge and the check valve. Unless such a relief hole is provided, the pump could "air lock" and will not pump water even though it will run.

5) Tape pump and switch cords to discharge line with electrician's tape. This will protect the cords from damage and will prevent power cords from interfering with the float.

6) TEST THE PUMP AFTER ALL CONNECTIONS HAVE BEEN MADE. Run water into sump. Do not attempt to operate the pump without water; this will damage the seals and bearings and could result in permanent damage to the pump. Fill sump to normal "on" level and allow pump to remove water to the normal "off" level (see fig. 2).

7) Place cover over sump. This cover will prevent solid debris from filling the pit. prevent odors, and guard against accidental injury.